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U.K. Lingerie Trip: All Undone Autumn/Winter 2013

All Undone's Mai Body
Sleek, modern, and understated aren't words commonly used to describe full bust lingerie. If they are mentioned, it's typically comparative, as in sleek, modern and understated compared to the bright florals, embroidery, profusion of laces, polka dots and bows that dominant the design landscape. All Undone, the new brand from Eva Phillips, aims to change that and while it may not be "edgy" to the rest of the world, it's downright revolutionary for this niche industry. 

Beyond the aesthetic of the label, the first collection is also a streamlined departure from the traditional DD+ debut. There are three lines -- the Mai, Didi, and Lola -- which will consist of the same five pieces: balconette bra, suspender, thong, brief, and body. The sets will be out first, in the middle of this month and the bodies will be out later, in early 2014. Like Sunday Intimates in the U.S., All Undone captures the smaller end of full bust bands, offering 28" - 34" backs while the cups are thinly padded three piece constructions, available from DD to GG.

The Mai
Since there are three variations on one theme, Eva told me she made sure to design each with a particular mood or function in mind, explaining that the Mai is more of a weekday option and is suitable under any clothing. This line is named after and inspired by Eva's Swedish grandmother who she described as "pure","wholesome" and the type of person who wanted to make sure everyone else was alright.
The Didi
The Didi is best for nights out, as well as moments when you'd like to telegraph a sassier side and let your lingerie peek out. The strong blue silk trim was difficult to replicate since Eva was looking for the exact hue of a 1930s nightie she'd worn out, which had belonged to her other grandmother --- an English dame, society lady and great lover of gin and tonics, who the line is named for.

The Lola
The Lola, the seasonal colorway for Autumn/Winter 2013, uses French Leaver's lace and coral silk to provide a foxier and more fashionable option. Within the clean and graphic lines of the All Undone vision, the references to current trends feels contemporary and subtle.

Side notes: 

-The entire collection will be available online and All Undone has confirmed stockists in the U.K. and Australia. Bras retail for £79 ($122 U.S.), suspenders for £46 ($71), briefs for £42 ($65), thongs for £38.50 ($60), and bodies between £132 -£140 (roughly $205 - $217).

-The price point reflects Eva's commitment to quality material: the silk, lace and hardware are purchased from superior producers in England and the Continent. Instead of outsourcing her manufacturing to ethically unreliable Southeast Asia or China, All Undone is made in Britain where it is guaranteed to provide a sustainable wage, humane work conditions and stimulate the local economy.

-I first found about All Undone through a post on Invest in Your Chest and if you're curious, there are Autumn/Winter 2013 and Spring/Summer 2014 (AHHH, THE YELLOW ONE!!) previews up on Lingerie Insight.

I'm tremendously excited to see All Undone premiere because, while I'd never describe my personal style as "streamlined", I feel as if I've been waiting for this brand for a long time. I'll never give up my flowered, bow ornamented and wildly embroidered concoctions, but these architectural designs feel very, very cool and completely unlike anything I've ever seen in my size. 

What do you think of this androgynous, striking collection?

9 Comments

  1. Oh my gosh, thank you for posting the info and photos! I've been obsessing over this brand for the last few months. Such gorgeous color ways and beautiful designs. I am so excited for this brand!

    Amber
    scarlets-letter.net

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  2. This brand is awesome. They're really doing something different and that makes them stand out. The Lola doesn't really do it for me, but both Didi and Mae are totally gorgeous! So jealous they don't make my size.

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  3. I *need* the Didi, gorgeous. Guess I'll have to find a very well paid job in the next few months to able to pay for all this gorgeous lingerie that is poping out:P

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  4. This looks so, so great. SO GREAT. The black and blue set is my spirit animal.

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  5. Wow ! It is really beautiful, I love it I love it I love it !

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  6. Ahhh The Mai! I love this brand's clean lines. I feel like they're the sort of "androgynous" full bust lingerie I've been looking for. But I don't think I'll be able to try them anytime soon with that price point!

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  7. Love them all! I'm especially drawn to the Lola. So beautiful!

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  8. I like the aesthetic - finally, something with clean lines and a more androgynous look - but not the prices. Since my size changes so frequently I rarely manage to even get 6 months of use out of my bras (most of which are still in good shape after that much time) so I'd feel like I was throwing money away if I paid that much for a bra now that there are cheaper options available. (I have paid that much for Prima Donna in the past, but that was long ago, when there were fewer options available.)

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  9. Now this is what I'm talking about!! I couldn't actually afford any of them, of course, but I am drooling over here. Apparently my style fits more into the androgynous category(???)--I wouldn't have ever guessed that. I do wish I knew more about the actual specs the bras are supposed to fit though--wire widths, cup depths, etc. are really important. Especially if you're plunking down half a car payment on a bra.

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